The Joy of Doing Nothing in Malta
During the planning phase that precedes any travel, it is easy to be consumed in the excitement of the best, most adventurous, most fun-filled destinations. Articles provide you with lists of activities, numerous stunning destinations, the “perfect” packing list, and of course the best options of luggage to put it all in. But what about the best place to do nothing at all? Somewhere with the culture and atmosphere in which you can just… stop?
This year has been a big, bold whirlwind, in the best possible way. I left my home country of Australia in February for a huge adventure starting in Asia, stopping off in the Middle East, and now winding its way through Europe. Amidst this year of travel came the opportunity to visit Malta, an island that had captured my attention and intrigue despite how little I knew about the country or its culture. Before arriving I already felt inclined to approach Malta a little differently than my previous destinations, forgoing the all-encompassing itinerary in favor of simply waiting to arrive and making plans based on how I felt in the moment.
There are quite a few options to choose from when deciding where to stay in Malta. Of course you could stay in the capital of Valetta or hot-spot Sliema with the rest of the tourists - it would mean plenty of restaurants and bars and nightlife. That’s the choice of the cruise ships which arrive and depart almost every day. But a 10 minute ferry or an even quicker water taxi (both with a very reasonable ticket price) will take you across the bay to the Three Cities, where life has a noticeably more relaxed pace. Traditional ideals abound and siesta reigns from midday to around 4pm as everyone retreats indoors from the heat of the day. I was fortunate enough to be staying in the house of a new friend while she went off on her own adventure, which meant two weeks in amongst the locals in an apartment within Senglea, one of the Three Cities. Staying in her home meant I was living where the locals are living, so I endeavoured to also live how the locals are living. Find out how I do this with Mitch’s article on living like a local.
It’s summer so the temperature is hot, but the medieval streets are laid out in straight lines to capture breezes. This well-considered city planning works perfectly, though even in the alleyways the temperature climbs enough to justify the daily midday escape to the indoors. Forced downtime in a year that has been so full of excitement and adventure can seem like a shock, but it was a very welcome change. My fast-paced personality learnt that sometimes a nap is ok. A waterfront stroll of an evening just to find a gelato? This is a cultural immersion of the most authentic kind. When a particularly hot evening is encountered, that must mean its time for a swim in the bay - where you can either find yourself totally alone or floating alongside locals cooling off and socializing.
Cats sprawl out on doorsteps and on top of cars in a visual representation of the relaxed attitude of locals. Dogs bark from picturesque balconies warning off passers by who might want to disturb their alone time. Simple acts like observing frequent choruses of church bells, hearing the ricocheting sound of ceremonial canon-fire from across the bay, and observing fireworks that are lit both day and night to scare off evil spirits, become daily highlights.
At this point I feel like it’s very important to note that the locals don’t care about you here. If that sounds shocking, believe me it was anything but. When no-one is taking notice of you or letting you affect their life, it takes off mental pressure. They aren’t here for me, I am not here to capture their attention, lets just all exist and be ok with that. I feel safe, content and my body can begin to release tension that has slowly been building while exploring major cities and ticking off bucket list items for the past few months. Yes, this is the perfect place to be doing sweet nothing at all.
As the afternoon rolls in I’m off for a dip in the ocean, ready to bob around in the wake of the next departing cruise ship and numerous ferries heading into Valetta. I will think about what I feel like for dinner and whether its a red wine, rosé or Kinnie kind of day. If I look closely I will be able to see the crowds at the Barrakka Gardens above the saluting battery, looking across at the picturesque Three Cities, admiring how peaceful and traditional the area seems. They’re not wrong.
